Polperro
to Pencarrow Head
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It's very pleasant walking from the car park to Polperro,
everybody seems to be on holiday, and there's a easy, relaxed
feeling in the air. If you've not been here before, then explore
the village a bit; it's not very big and well worth looking at.
The coastpath to Pencarrow Head is on the right-hand side
of the harbour, so walk past the chip shop then follow the signs
"to the cliff". Up some steps and walk around to the
right over flat rocks and you'll see the path in front of you.
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The path splits here, but you can follow either, they meet
up again later; don't think that the level one is any easier,
they end up as bad as each other!
After a while they rejoin, and for a while the path is fairly
level...enjoy this while you can. Soon you come to steps descending
to a lower area of cliff: You'll see the path meandering away
in front of you (see the memories page for a picture). Continue
along; this is a lovely stretch of coastline for walking known
as Raphael Cliff; after a while you see more steps - leading
upwards! One consolation when you get to the top is the terrific
view of Lantivet Bay, Pencarrow Head and further on, Gribbin
Head leading to St Austell Bay.
The path now ascends and descends continuously...steps down
to a stream, steps up the other side; steps gradually leading
upwards, steep steps going downwards. For a while you'll have
been hearing a ringing sound: Udder Rock, 1 mile offshore has
its resident buoy, and as you get level, on a gently (for once)
sloping path, you'll see a navigation aid alongside the trail,
which now leads to Lansallos Cliff.
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Follow the path as it twists and turns down towards West
Coombe or Lansallos Beach; as you come out from there, head upwards
to the gateway rather than the stile to the left: That just leads
to a headland and gets you nowhere. Keep to the bottom left of
the next field, don't follow the cow track across the middle.
Soon, you'll see Pencarrow Head in front of you; a stile beside
a gate, a National Trust sign, and you're striding nicely towards
the headland.
Watch out for a white painted cottage below, this is an old
Coastguard cottage which you may have seen from way back.
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A path leads off to the right..take it if you want to, it's
a shortcut. If you're a masochist, follow the path round to the
rocks and clamber around, then eventually you can meet that other
path again. Now walk along the crest of the headland, away from
the sea; Lantic Bay on your left, and on your right, Lantivet
Bay with Rame Head in the distance. Soon you come to a gate &
stile: on your left is the steep path leading to Polruan and
Fowey, but your path now just carries on towards the road; turn
to the right just before the road, a path has been provided for
walkers which takes you almost opposite the car park and a seat
in the car for tired legs.
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